The Joy of Staying at a Beautiful Hotel
Hotel Lilien in the Catskills is a dream.
My earliest memories involve hotels. My mom was a housekeeper at one of the big hotel chains, and my dad was a server. The best days were when I’d go with them to pick up their paychecks. We’d go through the back entrance, passing through the laundry room that smelled like that signature “clean hotel towel” scent and the kitchen where I’d peek into what the cooks were making. I’d wave hi at everyone, and they’d all be happy to see me. It seemed magical to me how out in the lobby and restaurant, everything was clean and quiet and pristine, but back there, it was organized chaos and an incredible group of people making it all run smoothly.
Hotels are a special place. Impeccable service, crisp bedding, cold rooms, fluffy towels, complimentary breakfast. They’re filled with the ultimate small pleasures. I’ve been having fun as an adult now exploring the world of independent, boutique hotels—an even more beautiful experience.
Last week, I stayed at Hotel Lilien in the Catskills where I had the loveliest time. This is my 8th summer visiting the Catskills and it’s truly one of my favorite places in the world. I had stopped by Hotel Lilien earlier this year for my birthday just to have dinner and was stunned by the interiors. Getting to go back and actually stay there this time was amazing. During my stay, I took a bunch of notes on things that inspired me there and all the small details that make hotels like Hotel Lilien feel so special. I put together a few recommendations to do around the area, too, if you’re ever near Tannersville, NY.
P.S. Hotel Lilien was kind enough to host me for this stay. It’s been on my list since they opened a few years ago, so this was very exciting for me! As always, all thoughts and opinions below are my own, and I’m just happy I get to share them with you. Hope you enjoy and and thank you!!!
What makes a good hotel?
An interesting backstory and intentional renovations
It all started in the 1890s when the Manhattan-based Lilienthal family built their upstate estate on 7 acres of land. For many generations, it was a family-owned inn. A few years ago, it was purchased, restored, and reimagined into what it is now by a group of friends. The hotel was furnished by SF-based interior design studio, Field Theory. I love that the original wood panelling, stained glass windows, and trims all remained after the restoration.
Service that makes you feel like you’re the most special guest in the world
My favorite thing about Hotel Lilien was how kind and sweet everyone was. David, one of the owners, was always there, making sure everything was okay. The hotel has 18 rooms, but it really just felt like I was being hosted by friends in their big house. Every morning and evening when I’d go to the lobby, I’d see familiar faces. We were all here in the Catskills at the same time, enjoying this charming place. Chris, another one of the owners (and also the bartender and server!), made us the best cocktails. It almost felt like we had known him for a long time, and that’s just the kind of place Hotel Lilien is.
A dedicated library that you find yourself thinking about even after your stay
Every hotel should have a dedicated library, but then again, most hotels aren’t Hotel Lilien. I spent one morning journaling and reading in there for hours, enjoying my coffee, the comfy couches, and the stunning stained glass windows and doors. There was a curated book selection of both old and new books on a big, wooden bookshelf. The key to my heart, truly.
Dog-friendly rooms and a grassy area for them to run around
Noguchi travels everywhere with me, so I’m always looking for dog-friendly accommodations. They have a separate house behind the main hotel with more rooms and a private deck so you (and your dog) can sunbathe. There’s also a big, well-kept grassy area out back, so Noguchi played lots of fetch , too.
An extremely big and comfy bed that gives you some of your best sleep
I’ve stayed at a lot of Airbnbs, and you never know what to expect when it comes to beds. But hotels? The beds are always comfy and reliable. The bed at Hotel Lilien may have one of the best beds I’ve slept on, though. The sheets were Brooklinen (which you know I love) and the king-sized mattress was from Wright. I now know what mattress I’m going to get next.
Tiny, thoughtful touches that surprise you
Single-serve instant coffee in your room, a secret reading nook on the top floor, an old telescope, a delightful website, fun branding, clever copy on the welcome pamphlet, live music on Sunday evenings—just a few of the many things Hotel Lilien had. Hotels that go above and beyond to give you a memorable experience just get it. Oh, and there’s a pool, too.
Fun recs that are less than a 20-minute drive away
Mama’s Boys Burgers (3 mins): A perfect no-frills burger spot with tater tots and ice cream.
Tannersville Antique Center (4 mins): The place for shopping for small home objects and collectibles.
Fellow Mountain Cafe (4 mins): This is my favorite coffee shop in the area — and in general. They have a great egg biscuit and fresh bread.
Selena’s (4 mins): A classic diner with the food you know and love.
Kaaterskill Falls (10 mins): Find a hiking trail or drive through the winding, picturesque road for one of my favorite views in the Catskills. There are lots of swimming holes around here, too. And if you come in the fall, it’s just the most unbelievable thing.
Story Farms (17 mins): ONE OF MY FAVORITE FARM STANDS!
Phoenicia Diner (20 mins): If you’re around here, you just gotta go! So cute, but I recommend going on the earlier side so you don’t have to wait for a table. The food is pretty good, and it’s on a great street with nice views.
Esopus Creek (20 mins): If you’re into fly fishing (or just hanging by a creek), this is it.
This is only a tiny glimpse into some of my recommendations for this specific area of the Catskills. More to come for other nearby towns. The Catskills are huge! But if you find yourself near Hunter or Tannersville, I hope you stop by Hotel Lilien. Whether it’s for a quick drink and dinner or a weekend stay, I know you’ll love it. They’re bringing a lot of delight to the Catskills.
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one of my favourite spots I’ve ever stayed! we still talk about how comfy the bed was and how kind the owners were. such a special place!
Love this ode to Hotel Lilien so much!